SURFING IS MY DRUG OF CHOICE
Posted on September 30 2016
As a seven year old I remember so clearly my first wave. My grandfather pushed me into a wave at San-O and I stood there trying to stay balanced so focused on staying up on my feet I didn't anticipate the rocks about to hit my fins. I got dragged on the rocks and my forearms and shins were bloody. My grandma brought me into the RV parked on the sand fed me hot chocolate and mac n' cheese, and I went back out hours after.
Now, 15 years later Bobby & I live at Turtle Bay, so this wave is in our backyard. I love it cause the way it rides reminds me of California. My favorite wave is Chuns, but this will do. Especially if I get to surf next to Bobby.
But I really didn't want to write a lot in this just cause the photos are self-absorbed enough, but just wanted to mention how much I love this suit! I would get compliments left and right on the print and design, thank you Bev for this! She makes custom made suits and they are the bomb!
One last thing before I put up the rest of the photos from this surf session... JJ is a friend of mine and his photos are amazing, I love seeing a different perspective of this beautiful island, it is so refreshing! Check him out if you are on the island, his work is definitely what you want framed in your home. Thanks JJ!